I've saved the best part for last, in this series on our recent trip to East Kwaio. On Saturday, we woke early and went to the local market. The OBM brought us there - it was through the Mangrove passage and then on the other side of the harbour. There, standing on a pile of stones that jutted out from the natural mangrove landscape, was a small leaf house - the market. By the time we arrived, there wasn't much left to purchase - tomatoes, tobacco, betelnut, greasy looking cooked fish, and an assortment of buns. Needless to say, we skipped the tobacco, betelnut and fish, and bought some tomatoes and buns.
The market is always a great place to meet people you haven't seen for a while - and a small local market like this, is even more of a hub for the locals. People stayed to chat long after the produce was sold out. I too met up with some people that I hadn't seen in a long time, one of whom was Salome. I was so happy to see her on her own turf!
I also met a new friend, Betty, who was one of the first people to start a village for new converts to Christianity, or new souls, as they are called here. Betty grew up in a Christian home, but her and her husband started living in the village of Kwambu as a way to offer a new place for new souls to live.
I was so excited to meet her that I proposed we go over and visit Kwambu. Because it was early morning, the tide was low, so it was harder to get there - a 10 minute trudge through the mud would have started the walk. So we decided to come back later in the day when it was high tide.

We set out at 3pm in the little OBM, travelling again over the harbour. It started raining and I crept in the covered part of the boat

while the other huddled under umbrellas. We approached the mouth of the "river" and made our way carefully through the passage in the mangroves.

When we reached the shore, we gingerly got out, looking carefully around us. Not far from Kwambu, in fact, further up the mountain, is a heathen village. Two of their women were down

by the water, washing something when we arrived. The fence in the background is the "pig fence". The heathens let their pigs roam free, but they don't want their pigs going into the Christian village. They say that if the pigs go into the area of the church, then Satan won't be happy with them if they sacrifice that pig. So they built this long fence - (Kwaio's version of the great wall of China!) to keep their pigs in their area and away from Kwambu and the church. That is no small undertaking - believe me - the fence starts here at the bottom by the water - with allowance for low tide, and goes all the way up the mountain!
I thought it was strange that so many of the heathen women I saw either in the market that morning, or here by the shore, had really short hair. I thought they'd have long wild hair, but it was short. I asked about it later and I was told that the heathens believe that Satan hates life - and new birth. So when a pregnant woman is ready to deliver, she has to go into the bush and deliver it by herself. After three weeks, when she has recovered from giving birth, she has to shave her hair and the baby's hair and then she can return. The hair is too closely linked to her pregnancy and delivery - too closely linked to life - so she has to get rid of it, and come back to the village devoid of hair. I thought it was so... well, fitting, I guess. Satan hates life - he is all about death. No wonder he hates a new baby being born. Whereas God is a God of life - He gives life - both physical life - and spiritual rebirth as well! No wonder they believe Satan hates life. Life is from God.
Anyway, we walked up this stony path, over the fence a few times, past streams,

through Kwambu village, up to the church. We passed this little girl, a kastom umbrella on her head, looking at us. We found out later, we were the first white people ever to go inside that village.

They rung the bell and people started coming to the church. They welcomed us, and prayed with us, introduced themselves, and talked about their work of reaching out and witnessing to the heathen people up the hill. Many of them are new souls themselves. Including this man

who in his former life was a pagan priest. His cheeks are green with numerous tribal markings associated with that role. Now David knows Jesus and has been set free. A number of years ago already, he and wife and children, and his mother, came down from the heathen village, and became followers of Jesus instead. He proudly introduced us to his children - 11 of them! He was quite chuffed when I said he almost had as many kids as Abraham.
And then I met Salome again - and her husband and one of her children. They were so loving and full of joy. You could feel it. Though her skin bears the tattoos and markings of her former life, her face, marked by freedom, tells a different story. Why? Because of Jesus.

The people of Kwambu were so generous - even though we had come just to visit Betty had prepared food for us - good local kaikai straight from her garden.

Betty is the woman on the right, while her mother-in-law is the older woman standing next to my mother.
I felt so privileged to be able to visit Kwambu - to meet people whose lives had been changed so radically because of the gospel and who are passionate about reaching out to the heathens further up the mountain.
The church in Kwambu - definitely the hub of the village - overlooks the harbour, and itself can be seen in the harbour standing as a testimony of the changes that have come about in that area.
Remember Kwambu in your prayers, that they may be a city on a hill, a light to those living in darkness.


































